Guess who's back, back again
50 First States back, tell a friend
Guess who's back, Guess who's back ...
And like Eminem said in "
Without Me",
Operation 50 First States is back again. And why not, with spring ending and summer starting? It was time to stroll again though
Paris in July, when I jump-started the operation (even though, as I write, the fall has arrived and winter is not too far away).
So starting in July, I took on the
12th arrondissement. The game plan remained the same from the
11th arrondissement: stroll through the arrondissement, stopping by 10 landmarks and asking 50 people passed on the way if they came from one of the capitals of the 50 U.S. States. The stroll was divided into 5 parts, each part comprising of 2 landmarks to visit, 10 people to meet, and, quite naturally, 10 inquiries to make. I reused the same list of reasons (one for each of the 5 strolls) to give if the people that I approached asked why I was doing what I was doing:
- I am just bored
- I am just trying to be creative
- I am trying to change the world
- I am trying to overcome my shyness
- I am trying to stop caring about what people think about me
The one "improvement" that I added to the operation was dedicated to the ladies. When the next person that I had to approach had to be a girl, I would only choose a girl whom I found pretty. And before the end of the interaction, I would ask her if she would like to have a drink with me. No frills, just a direct invitation to have a drink together.
It is worth pointing out that I was not able to ask every girl that I met for a drink, since some did not bother to stay five seconds for a chat. Besides, among those that I did ask, not one of them said yes. Nonetheless, I was prepared for the potential rejection.
And without further ado, I present to you a recap of my visit of 10 landmarks in the 12th arrondissement, accompanied with some notes about interesting interactions that I had along the way.
1.
Gare de Lyon
Gare de Lyon is one of the six
mainline railway stations in Paris. The third busiest station of
France, it is named after the city of Lyon, a stop for many
long-distance trains departing from the station, most en route to the
south of France. Built for the Exposition Universelle (World Fair) of
1900, it is considered a classic example of the architecture of its
time, whose most notable feature is the 67-meter high clock tower atop
one corner of the station, similar in style to the one in London that
houses to Big Ben.


Right
on the parvis of Gare de Lyon was a girl standing idle with her phone.
After a slight hesitation, I went over to meet her. Well, she was not
from Sacramento, California. When I asked her if she was game for a
drink, she replied casually that she was actually waiting for her
boyfriend, who was late. "Ah", I said. If I had any serious game, I
would probably have followed up by asking, "So, if you were not waiting
for your boyfriend, would you have liked a drink anyway?" But no, I simply
left.
2.
Promenade plantée
Promenade plantée is an elevated linear park built
atop the old Vincennes railway line. Beginning just east of
Opéra Bastille, it follows a 4.7 km (2.9 mi) path eastward that ends at
Boulevard Périphérique, a ring road that separates the city of Paris
from its suburbs. As if it was not green enough, the promenade provides
access to other parks and gardens such as
Jardin Hector Malot,
Jardin de Reuilly,
Jardin de la gare de Reuilly et
Square Charles Péguy.
It
was in a scene of the film "
Before Sunset", directed by Richard
Linklater and starring Ethan Hawke and Julie Delpy, that I discovered
the promenade for the first time. Since then, I have always enjoyed
visiting the promenade, and the film quickly became one of my favorites.




One
interesting encounter in this improved version of the operation occurred while I was at Promenade plantée. As I passed through a leafy arch, I came face to face with a girl coming from the opposite direction. I promptly asked her
if she was from Tallahassee, Florida. She was attentive but did not
seem to understand, so I kept repeating the question, each time more clearly. That was when a young man, whom I had actually just
passed before seeing the girl, appeared and inquired what was going on,
as if he wanted to protect her. I then figured that they were in the
same company, which also included an elderly woman with whom I had seen
the man earlier. Suddenly embarrassed, I quickly found my
exit without daring to ask the girl if she wanted to have drinks,
leaving her to explain to the guy what had just happened.
Also on Promenade plantée, I approached a
guy to find out if he was from Atlanta, Georgia. He replied no, and but
he was curious. "What do you want?", he asked. When I told him that I
was just bored, he smiled.
3.
Viaduc des Arts
Viaduc
des Arts is a collection of art shops and galleries grouped in a unique
construction along
Avenue Daumesnil. Its location was previously
occupied by the former viaduct of Paris that was built in 1859 to
support the old Vincennes railway line. It was in 1990 that the mairie
de Paris (Paris city hall) decided to rehabilitate the viaduct by
renovating each of its vaults in order to transform them into a new
conservatory of arts and crafts.
 |
| Culinary arts, anyone? |
I ran into one guy accompanied by a girl near an intersection
along Viaduc des Arts. When I asked him if he was from Indianapolis,
Indiana, he shot back : "Do I look like I'm from
Indianapolis?" I replied that I was just trying to be creative. "Nice
try", he said in return, smiling.
4.
Rue d'Aligre
Rue d'Aligre is a street in a
neighborhood called
Quartier d'Aligre that begins at
Rue de Charenton
and ends at
Rue du faubourg Saint-Antoine. Every day except Monday, it
is home to
Marché d'Aligre, an open-air market, and in the middle of
the street, on
Place d'Aligre, is the
Marché Beauvau, a covered market.
 |
| Marché Beauvau on Place d'Aligre |
 |
| Rene Miller encore! |
At Marché
d'Aligre, I ran into Rene Miller, the musician that I had seen performing in
Marché Bastille when I was running
Operation 50 First States in the 11th arrondissement last year. It seemed like he was taking a
break, and I went over to have a chat. He told me that he was
American, and I told him that I was from New Jersey. Then the lady who
was standing next to me and who must have listened to Rene's performance, mentioned that she would be in New Jersey soon. Next
thing you know, I was talking with her. She said that she knew Rene
from before and had just arrived in Paris from Memphis, Tennessee for a stay lasting several weeks. I discovered that she was an illustrator and also an urban sketcher, which only increased my curiosity. Naturally, I told her about
the urban sketching community in Paris that I was a part of and invited her to come sketch with us during
our session at
Jardin du Luxembourg that was taking place the following
day and that I was organizing. She said that she planned to make it.
What an interesting encounter!
There
was another nice moment at Marché d'Aligre once I had resumed the
operation there following morning. On one hand, it was remarkable because the
girl that I had passed while wading through the crowds was wearing the most
lovely, summery white dress. On the other hand, it was unremakable
because I had done nothing, except to watch her get farther away.
There
was a couple of youngsters that I stumbled upon on Rue du faubourg
Saint-Antoine, after leaving the market. They both looked drugged and my interaction with them
was weird. The girl acted as if she wanted to help me when I asked the guy if he was from Jackson, Mississippi, whereas the guy wanted to
keep walking. They could not make up their mind between themselves,
while at the same time they continued their interaction with me (sort
of). The whole encounter was a mess. Even my "I'm trying to change the
world" remark fell on deaf ears.
5.
Opéra Bastille
Opéra
de la Bastille, or more commonly Opéra Bastille, is a modern opera
house located on
Place de la Bastille. Inaugurated on 13 July 1989 on
the eve of the 200th anniversary of the
storming of the Bastille,
it became the main facility of the
Paris National Opera, alongside the
older
Palais Garnier. Many opera performances are shown here along with some ballet performances and symphony concerts.
I
was waiting to cross the street to get from Opéra Bastille to the other
end of Place de la Bastille when a girl joined me. I jumped on the
opportunity and asked her if she was from Lincoln, Nebraska. She replied
no, crossed the street smiling (the light was already green), and
disappeared. Either she was walking too fast for me to ask her out for a
drink, or I was too slow to pop the question. You figure. While
lamenting a missed opportunity that had nevertheless started out great, I
ran into the girl again on the quay at
Port de l'Arsenal sometime later. Talk about luck! I had been granted a second chance, and I did not waste it. In response, she giggled and passed me by without saying a single word. She probably thought
that I was not serious. Her loss.
6.
Bassin de l'Arsenal
Bassin
de l'Arsenal, also known as Port de l'Arsenal, is a boat basin that links
Canal Saint-Martin, which begins at
Place de la Bastille, to the
Seine, at
Quai de la Rapée. Excavated after the destruction
of the
Bastille fortress in during the French Revolution, it was
designed to replace the ditch that had been in place to draw water from
the Seine to fill the moat at the fortress. During the nineteenth
century and most of the twentieth, the basin was a commercial port where
goods were loaded and unloaded. It was converted into a leisure port
in 1983 and serves as a dock to approximately 180 pleasure boats.
 |
| The port beyond the platform of the Bastille metro station |
 |
| Towards the north : Place de la Bastille |
 |
| Towards the south : Quai de la Rapée |
Strolling
along the quay at Port de l'Arsenal, I noticed a boat. Actually,
it was the blond girl standing alone on a raised floor on the boat that I
noticed. Compared to other opportunities, this one was sufficiently
unusual to not pass up. Besides, I had one more girl to approach before ending the operation for the day. So I
shouted "Hi" to her
‒ I had never realized I could shout
‒ and she said "Hi"
back. I asked her if she was from Concord, New Hampshire and she said
no. When I asked her if she would like to have a drink, she said "No,
thank you" and immediately went inside the boat through a door behind
her. I could do nothing else but resume my stroll. Moments later, I turned around and saw
the girl getting off the boat with a guy. I looked back again a few
seconds later and they were both walking hand in hand on the quay towards Place de la Bastille, away from me.
My last encounter at Port de
l'Arsenal was with an older guy seated comfortably on the grass of the garden bordering the quay . In a perfect American accent, he told me that he was from somewhere in
Ohio. He added, "Why do you ask [if I am from Trenton, New Jersey]?" I
replied that I was trying to change the world, to which he responded,
"Good luck".
7.
Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy
Palais
Omnisports de Paris-Bercy, often abbreviated as POPB or Bercy, is an
indoor sports arena and concert hall. Easily recognized by its
pyramidal shape and its walls covered with sloping lawn, it provides a
limitless range of technical applications for unlimited sound, lighting and
special effects. POPB is the venue of the
Paris Masters tennis
tournament, as well as competitions in other sports like
including handball, basketball, boxing, gymnastics, athletics, track
cycling, and show jumping. It has a seating capacity ranging from 3,500
to 17,000, depending on the event.
 |
| The POPB becoming Bercy Arena |
As I turned right from
Boulevard de Bercy into
Rue de Bercy, around the corner where the Palais-Omnisports de Paris-Bercy was, I saw two girls
standing with luggage and chatting. Speaking English with an
unmistakably British accent, they revealed that they were not from Santa
Fe, New Mexico and turned down my invitation for a drink, saying that
they had to go somewhere. One of them then asked for the reasons for my actions, and I told her that I was trying to overcome my
shyness. Instantly, both girls stated that I was not shy, which I
found flattering. They kept asserting that I was not shy, and when I could not take it anymore, I said "well you don't see me all the
time". A brief and more conventional conversation ensued. One of the
girls saw the sheet of paper fixed to a plastic board that I was holding and asked
to see it. I started to present it, saying that it was a list of the capitals of the 50 United States, only to be interrupted by their departure
after a third girl had appeared. All alone again, I started
to wonder. Word on the street is that I may not be shy after all. What an idea.
8.
Parc de Bercy
Parc de Bercy is a public park located along the
right bank of the Seine. Inaugurated in 1994 on the site of
former Bercy wine warehouses, the park has an area of 13.9 hectares and is
composed of three different gardens, each having a distinct theme: the
"Meadows", an area of open lawns shaded by tall trees, the "Flowerbeds",
dedicated to plant life, and the "Romantic Garden", which includes
fishponds and reconstitutions of dunes.
 |
| The Meadows |
 |
| The Flowerbeds |
 |
| Crossing over to the Romantic Garden |
 |
| The Romantic Garden |
 |
| La Grande Terrasse |
Shortly after
arriving in Parc de Bercy, I approached a man who was perhaps in his 60s while
he was taking a break from a power walk. When I asked him if he was
from Bismarck, North Dakota, he pointed to the ground with a finger and
said, with a slight smile: "I am from here".
I had an
interesting encounter with a smartly dressed young man with a girl by
his side at the end of the park, near
Cour Saint-Emilion. When I
asked him if he was from Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, he said yes and kept saying yes
even though I had started to stress "Pennsylvania". Surprised after the nth
yes, I had no choice but to go further in the conversation, so I went,
"Well, I'm from Philad ..." before he interrupted me. "Pennsylvania? No
I'm from Paris!" The good young fellow that he was, he wished me good luck.
On
Passerelle Simone de Beauvoir, I had an somewhat strange encounter with a
woman. I wanted to find out if she was from Rhode Island, Providence,
but it seemed difficult because she responded with words that were
barely audible. Even though I tried to make my question clearer, each time I
heard practically nothing in response. When I was about to take my
leave, the woman let out a familiar expression in a voice significantly less inaudible than before:
"Au revoir".
9.
Cour Saint-Emilion
Cour
Saint-Emilion is a pedestrian street that is the main attraction of
Bercy Village, an area on the southwest end of
Parc de Bercy. It takes
its name from the wines of Saint-Emilion, a French
AOC-designated red wine produced
in the region surrounding the town of Saint-Emilion, near Bordeaux.
With the 42 white-stoned wine storehouses that border it, the street is a
vestige of the Bercy warehouses where there was
a large wine-producing industry for more than a century. Today, Cour Saint-Emilion is a
shopping mall, offering boutiques, restaurants, a multiplex, and much
more.
 |
| Hello Cour Saint-Emilion |
 |
| Goodbye Cour Saint-Emilion |
One
of my most interesting encounters of all time ever took place on Cour Saint-Emilion. I
saw two girls, both pretty, and I stopped one to find out if she was
from Montpelier, Vermont. What ensued was something that I had not
expected. In response to the question that I asked about her origins, she inquired about what I was doing and why I was doing it. I no longer remember if I gave her the already prepared reason ("I am trying to stop caring about what people think about me"). In any case, I presented the list of U.S. state capitals to her and explained how I was using it, only for her to claim that I was holding myself
captive by roaming the streets to ask random strangers my questions. I defended my actions, arguing that I
was just creating potentially interesting interactions. When she asked why it was her that I
had stopped, I admitted that it was because she was pretty. I felt
that she was displeased by this revelation, especially when I repeated in passing that she was pretty, so I stopped using
the word. At some point during our conversation, she told me that God loved me (and would tell me that again several times). It was surprising and rather amusing. She told me about the church
that she was going to and asked me I knew it. "Hillsong?", I repeated
after her. "Yes, I know it, I have been there before actually." Apparently happy with this discovery, she insisted that I attend the
service the
following day (a Sunday), no matter how many times that I told her that I
had
other plans and that I almost never went to church. The pressure that
she was putting was rather heavy; it seemed like that she was not
listening to what I said. Only so that she would stop, I told her that
I would try to make it if I could. At one point, she
referred to her friend, who, at a
certain distance, was nothing but a spectator throughout this event.
Having just learned her friend's name, I asked her what her own name
was. She replied
"Fille de Dieu", meaning "Daughter of God". We had spoken for a few
minutes, and after a while she started to take
things less seriously. Perhaps she had understood that what had just
happened was an interaction that aimed to be friendly even if a bit peculiar. She insisted once again that I come to Hillsong the following day,
and left smiling
with her friend. I felt relieved, even though it was a fun experience.
Needless to say, I did not get a yes in response to my
invitation for a drink.
Before
leaving Cour Saint-Emilion, I approached a girl to ask her if she was
from Olympia, Washington. At the same moment that she asked the reason for
the question, after indicating that she was not from there, I asked her
if she wanted to have a drink. Really smooth. I wonder
if this abrupt behavior on my part was influenced by the presence of the security guard a few steps away.
10.
Place Félix Eboué
Place
Félix Eboué is a square located at the former location of the Barrière
de Reuilly, one of the barriers along the wall built around Paris in the
late 18th century. Formerly called Place Daumesnil, the square was
given its current name in 1947 in the memory of Félix Eboué (1884-1944),
a French colonial administrator and politician who was among the first
people to join the Free France government led by General Charles de Gaulle
during World War II. Installed at the center of the square is the
Fontaine du Château d'Eau, a large circular basin supporting three
smaller ones and decorated with eight statues of lions spitting jets of
water.
I met a girl while crossing the street on Place Félix Eboué. No, we were not on the crosswalk, but on the platform on the middle. When I asked her if she was from Madison, Wisconsin, she stated that there were few chances that I would run into someone from Madison in the vicinity. Noting that, I asked her if she wanted to have a drink. She said no and went on to cross the rest of the road, walking rather briskly.
Here are some other interesting scenes captured during the strolls:
 |
| Where rollerbladers and skateboarders meet on Place de la Bastille |
 |
| Look, it's the Maison de la RATP! |
 |
| Passerelle Simone de Beauvoir towards the 12th arrondissement |
 |
| Jardinière Avenue Daumesnil |